“Tag size is history; flat measurements are truth.”
Because standard garment sizing has shifted dramatically across the decades—a shift known in textile history as vanity sizing—a vintage 1970s or 1980s garment labeled as a “Size 10” or “Size 12” frequently aligns with a modern US Size 4 or 6. We measure every piece flat (unstretched) in our Palm Springs studio to ensure an accurate fit.
Vintage Tag Size (1970s–1980s) Estimated Modern US Size Bust (Inches) Waist (Inches) Hips (Inches) Vintage 6 / 8 Modern 0 – 2 (XS) 31″ – 32.5″ 23″ – 24.5″ 33″ – 35″ Vintage 10 / 12 Modern 4 – 6 (S) 33″ – 35″ 25″ – 27″ 35.5″ – 37.5″ Vintage 14 / 16 Modern 8 – 10 (M) 35.5″ – 37.5″ 27.5″ – 29.5″ 38″ – 40″ Vintage 18 / 20 Modern 12 – 14 (L) 38″ – 40.5″ 30″ – 32.5″ 41″ – 43.5″
How to Measure for Vintage Garments
To determine whether an archival piece will fit comfortably, select a similar non-stretch garment from your wardrobe that fits well, lay it flat on a firm surface, and compare against our listing measurements:
- Bust / Chest: Measured straight across from armpit seam to armpit seam, then doubled.
- Waist: Measured across the narrowest point of the natural waistline, then doubled.
- Hips: Measured straight across the widest point of the hip curve (typically 7–9 inches below the waistline), then doubled.
- Length: Measured from the highest point of the shoulder seam straight down to the bottom hem.
- Shoulder to Shoulder: Measured straight across the back from shoulder seam to shoulder seam (critical for 1980s power tailoring and structured knitwear).
Decade Silhouettes & Wearing Ease
- 1980s Tailoring & Silk: Garments from designers like Castleberry, Flora Kung, and St. John were cut with distinct shoulder architecture and fitted waists. Always allow 1 to 2 inches of “wearing ease” beyond your exact body measurements for non-stretch silks and wool crepe.
- Archival Knitwear: High-grade vintage knits feature natural mechanical stretch; our listings provide both relaxed and comfortably extended measurements.